Photo by Andy Hutchinson
Sure, it looks cool, but getting drenched and dropped below hundreds, if not thousands of gallons of water is extremely dangerous, even for those who have participated in the sport for years. Any surfer will tell you that there is an element of danger to big wave surfing, but navigating the waves is just part of the challenge.
With waves over 50 feet tall, the potential of hitting your head underwater on a submerged rock is very real. At some point, you’re also going to have to fight your way back to the surface and if you aren’t ready for that next big wave, you could get carried out to sea.
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